Climbing to the Col de l'Agnel is something of a Nordic skiing adventure. Starting from the picturesque Pont de Lariane it is a 720-meter climb over 19km return. Alternatively, you could opt to begin your journey from le Pont de la Chanterane, which covers a 25km round trip with 840-meters of climbing. The route is groomed for both classic and skating techniques but not everyday, check on facebook as it attracts an array of winter sports enthusiasts, including walkers, snowshoers, ski tourers, and even dog sleds which can make climbing on skate skis hard work once the trail is churned up. I suggest embarking on your odyssey early in the morning after grooming, which generally occurs once a week.
The initial ascent is relatively manageable for the first few kilometers with some flatter sections that allow for the V2 skating technique. However, the incline begins to intensify before the first hairpins, where the slope climbs towards the refuge d'Agnel. As you venture further into the high mountains, the lack of oxygen will undoubtedly begin to take its toll. The refuge is open throughout the winter and spring seasons for refreshing stops or even an overnight stay. With only a few hairpins left to tackle, with steep grades of up to 10%, you arrive at the majestic col, boasting breathtaking views of Italy and the Queyras. This impressive climb reaches a peak altitude of 2750 meters, where oxygen levels are a lung-busting 30% less than at sea level.
On the day I skied the route a retour de l'est (moisture laden storm from Italy) had generously dumped 30cm of fresh snow on the Queyras on the Italian border, resulting in the resort delaying the pisting of the road by a day to take advantage of the return to sunny weather. The trail starts on the left bank and climbs sharply, but rejoins the main Col d'Agnel road after 2km. There were several groups of ski tourers respectfully keeping to the sides of the path. Although progress may appear slow, focus should be on maintaining steady forward movement in the thin air. At the halfway point, after a left hairpin turn, the slope briefly flattens before intensifying again. Here the col and refuge are visible in the distance, with the slope varying between steep but skiable and steeper ramps. Finally, a right-hand hairpin signals the beginning of the final 500 meters to the col, but be prepared for the thin air to leave you feeling a little lightheaded.
The ski down in the loose snow is an absolute thrill, with climbing skiers serving as the only obstacle. I suggest taking the right bank all the way back to the car park before crossing back over the river to arrive at the trailhead. Overall, this Nordic skiing adventure is an incredible experience that should not be missed.
